This is the fifth, year in a row that we have headed across to Newport, Pembrokeshire for our May half-term break, so of course that also means our fifth trip landing on Skomer to see the puffins.
The weather report looked ok, grey clouds, but with a bit of mid-morning fog and a bit of wind, up to 14mph, but that has to be expected on Skomer sitting out in the Irish Sea.
Departure
Heading down to the boat at Martin’s Haven, we stopped off to use the facilities, but was delighted to see that some swallows had chosen the site for a nest! We spent a few minutes watching them dart in and out before it was time for our departure.
On the island
On the way over, we got our introduction to the island from Jim, who everyone who has been over to Skomer will know. Jim told us that after the reports of thousands of dead puffins washing up on European shores earlier this year, that they had been worried that puffin numbers on Skomer would be reduced this year. However they were surprised and delighted to see that the count in 2026 had grown by 10,000 to 52,000 compared to 2025.
Once everyone had climbed the steep steps from the landing to the top of the cliff, we were given a briefing by the volunteers who stay on the island over the summer months to warden the island and it’s visitors. As ever, the number one rule is “stay on the paths” to ensure that no-one steps on the shallow burrows that are home to the puffins and manx shearwaters (an incredible 350,000 breeding pairs) who nest on the island, along with thousands of guillemots, razorbills and kittiwakes and other fabulous birds. All the while, puffins were buzzing past us as they shuttled back and forth to the feeding areas from their burrows.
We headed around the island, in the suggested anti-clockwise direction, with our first stop being for some lunch at the farm, which is the only place in the island with toilets, but also has picnic areas, a small information center and shelter if needed. It wasn’t long before we saw our first rabbits, along with skylarks, jackdaws and black-back gulls.
The weather started to worsen with thick fog, rain and wind as we came to Skomer Head, which marked the start of the really puffin nesting areas, all the way down to The Wick and High Cliff. Every step of that route is lined with burrows on both sides of the path and you’re greeted with beautiful sightings of puffins and their almost comical behaviour, with them often crossing over the path in front of you, sometimes so close you could trip over them.
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As we were leaving The Wick, Heather spotted a couple of coughs, which was incredible as it was the first time I’d ever seen one after a few years of trying. Such a great reward and made the trip even more worthwhile.
Finally it was time to leave, back on the boat to Martin’s Haven. This time we were joined by Tonto, an almost tame herring gull who often joins Jim on the ferry trips across the island.
A great trip. Will we be back again next year?
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